Gardening

A Home Fruit Growers’ Tour will be conducted from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon on Saturday, May 19, 2007. Two fruit orchards are on this year’s tour route, including a commercial peach orchard in the Texas City-Dickinson area.

Photo Credit: Dr. William M. Johnson

MAY GARDENING CHORES

By Dr. William M. Johnson, Galveston County Extension Agent - Horticulture

May 2, 2007

Temperature-wise, April was a yo-yo month—one day it’s in the upper-eighties and the next day it’s in the mid-sixties. But we had some absolutely beautiful weather at times nevertheless. The days of May will bring warming nights and longer, sunnier days—a change of season.

Busy days of gardening are in store for the May gardener in completing spring chores and in preparing for summer. The following gardening guides may be helpful for May gardening activities:

HOME FRUIT GROWERS’ TOUR: A Home Fruit Growers’ Tour will be conducted on Saturday, May 19, 2007. Two fruit orchards are on this year’s tour. Each location will be open from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon.

This year’s tour sites contain a wide variety of fruit trees ranging from a peach orchard (Fruits ’n Such Orchard located at 6309 Avenue U in Texas City) and the Master Gardeners Demonstration Orchard (located in Carbide Park in La Marque). Citrus, figs, apples and other fruit trees can be seen also. Tour maps may be downloaded from the Internet from the website provided at the end of this column (click on the “Extension Educational Programs” link). Additional information will also be provided in my garden column on May 16.

CARE OF NEW PLANTINGS: Rainfall has been adequate over the past few weeks. Should dry weather conditions set in, be sure to keep newly planted trees and shrubs well-watered. Spring-planted trees and shrubs will be establishing their root system this year and thus are very susceptible to transplant shock during the summer if not given proper care. The first summer is a critical period for all new plantings. To reduce transplant shock, be sure to water thoroughly and deeply as needed during dry weather rather than giving more frequent, light sprinklings.

Plants should also be mulched with shredded pine bark, pine needles, compost, dried lawn clippings, etc. A 4-to-6-inch layer of mulch will also help control weeds, maintain more uniform soil moisture, and keep the soil cooler. As a result, the degree of transplant shock will be significantly minimized. Also, add to the list of benefits the fact that mulched trees and shrubs will grow much better than non-mulched transplants.

PROTECT INSECT POLLINATORS: We are busy in the garden this month and so are honey bees and other insect pollinators. Let's do all we can to protect these valuable little insects. Many insecticides are highly toxic to bees. Some cannot be safely applied anytime target plants are in bloom, while others should be applied only in the early morning or late evening when bees are less likely to be foraging for nectar and pollen.

If there is clover growing near the area to be sprayed and it is producing flowers (which are attractive to honeybees), mow the clover to remove the flowers before applying any material that is hazardous to bees. In all cases, when plants in the area are in bloom, select the material least hazardous to the bees. Insecticides should be applied only during late evening if blooms are present.

LAWNS: Many homeowners will level out low spots in the lawns this time of the year using sharp sand or bank sand as the only filler. While this is a common practice, it is not a good one. Use of sand to fill low areas in a lawn will very likely cause problems later on with unsatisfactory lawn growth.

Such areas will suffer more from drought stress during the summer and will likely have problems with soil nutrient uptake. For best results, use a good quality topsoil to fill in low areas of the lawn.

LEAF DROPPAGE OF EVERGREENS: Many gardeners take the description "evergreen" too literally and often are concerned when evergreens, such as magnolias, euonymus, live oak, gardenia, and some of the hollies, lose some of their old leaves during late spring and early summer. The flush of new growth on many evergreens will cause a yellowing of old leaves and leaf droppage. Nothing to be concerned about–just Mother Nature putting on a new spring coat of green and discarding the old.

FRUIT SET ON SQUASH: Don't be concerned if the first several squash fruit fall off the plant before they reach an edible stage. The first flowers to form in squash in early spring are the female flowers (with the miniature fruit located right under the yellow flowers).

No male flowers are formed at this time; therefore, no pollination takes place. However, in a few days the male flowers will be formed, and normal fruit set should take place. Interestingly enough, it's the reverse in summer plantings–the male flowers tend to develop first so no fruit set occurs until the female flowers develop.

BLACKBERRIES: Blackberries are coming into production. As canes which produced fruit this season finished bearing and start to die back, they should be removed at ground level. "Tip back" new canes to encourage branching; next year's blackberries will be produced on these canes.

SUMMER ANNUALS: Remove faded blooms for more productive flowering. If beds are not mulched, then lightly cultivate the upper soil so as not to disturb shallow roots. Doing so improves water absorption, reduces soil compaction, and aids in weed control. Plant summer annual plants that take the heat such as periwinkles, purslane, portulaca, lantana, etc.

Annuals for shade may include: impatiens, coleus, caladiums (the tubers are just about out of stock, potted plants are still available), and bedding begonias. Caladiums will often produce a single flower stalk right after the first leaves are produced. Early removal of the flower stalk will encourage the plants to produce more lush leaf growth.

Dr. Johnson is a horticulturist with the Galveston County Extension Office of Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas A&M University. Visit his web site at http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/index.htm

Note: Picture updated.

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